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This rustic spot--off the beaten path on a shady side street, occupying an antique Victorian storefront--is just what the south Slope needed. Sourcing ingredients from farms upstate, the menu features rib-sticking lamb loin and rib-eye steak, taking a kinky turn with granola-encrusted skate wing and scallops draped with oxtail. Soups are a particularly strong point, featuring rutabaga, squash, and other winter vegetables, decorated with colorful squiggles of flavored oil. Caveat: The menu needs more vegetarian entrées.