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Sim-Sim is one of New York's rare Azerbaijani cafes, and just in case you've forgotten, Azerbaijan is an oil-rich former-Soviet republic in the Caucasus Mountains, a region sandwiched between Georgia and Iran. There are excellent charcoal-grilled kebabs, of course, of which our favorite is the ground-lamb lulya kebab, but also direct your attention to meal-size soups like dushbara, which immerses meat-stuffed dumplings in a mint-laced broth. The chicken tabaka ("road kill chicken") is available in a deluxe edition featuring a yogurt-garlic dipping sauce, and you can also score the legendary "jiz biz," a stir fry of French fries and random lamb organs, a favorite of the Organ Meat Society. Finally, find a novel slaw of green radish and shredded lamb tongue. Ouch!