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This branch of a long-lasting Manhattan Valley Ethiopian has bravely carpetbagged its way downtown, where the Indian/Bangladeshi strip is rapidly being remade as a linear food court. The vegetarian combos are bargain-priced wonders, featuring beets, carrots, and collards matched with lentils and split peas puddled in shades of brown. The butter-sluiced steak tartare called kitfo is also spectacular, and don't miss the national dish, doro watt, which deposits chicken and a boiled egg in chile-laced murk. Only the lamb dishes disappoint.