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Ayada presents the food of Thailand's glittering capital, and much of it is not like the Thai you're used to. Take the raw shrimp appetizer--eight gray beauties pinwheeled around the plate and mobbed with a green cilantro-and-chile relish, clearly influenced by Japanese cuisine. The curries alone are worth a special trek to Elmhurst, featuring several varieties that omit the overly rich (and overly calorific) coconut milk. These include a kang som sour curry bobbing with shrimp and swatches of omelet, and a marvelous prikh-king curry of sautéed pork and shreds of fiery hot pepper. Other recommended dishes: pork larb salad, stewed beef tendon (with pig blood or without), and pork leg with mustard greens over rice.