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Mulberry Street used to mean suffering through bland penne alla vodka or lackluster veal Marsala. But now it"s an oasis for omnivores, in part thanks to Balaboosta, Einat Admony"s lively and unpretentious Mediterranean bistro whose name means "the ideal housewife" in Yiddish. Small plates and appetizers shine--try the quinoa with lemon and dried cranberries, the smoky eggplant bruschetta, and the grilled pizza topped with bright carrot puree and goat cheese. The carnivorous, meanwhile, should tuck into the grilled lamb chops dressed with Persian lime sauce. Yep, Little Italy just got a little less Italian.