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Once ensconced in a stall under the Manhattan bridge, this distinguished Vietnamese institution was reinstalled in the rear of a jewelry store. One thing they do with the extra space is a lot of baking, including bright green mung bean cakes stuffed with coconut, chewy sweet beef jerky, and, best of all, the demi-baguettes on which the sandwiches are made. The bread is reheated, stuffed with cukes, pickled carrots and radishes, homemade Chinese sausage, cilantro, bologna-like pork pate, and, at your request, hot green chiles. There's no better lunch in town.