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This hybrid deli and atelier (a-deli-ier?) on a populated stretch of Grand Street began life 25 years ago as a sandwich stall under the Manhattan Bridge, eventually partnering with a jewelry shop on Mott Street, where it stayed until 2010. The current location of Banh Mi Saigon â€” emblazoned with the shopâ€™s name and still selling jewelry â€” serves some of the best banh mi sandwiches in the city. The baguette is baked in-house and eats best at lunchtime, when it retains ample chew. Carnivores score big with candied pebbles of roast pork, rich chicken-liver pĂ˘tĂ©, and gelatinous slices of Vietnamese pork roll, a type of forcemeat similar in taste and texture to bologna. The colossal demi-loaves are filled to bursting, reined in by a thin wrapping of deli paper. Ordering your sandwich â€śspicyâ€ť invites a fiery mosh pit of sliced jalapeĂ±os to the party; look to the refrigerated display cases for relief in the form of refreshing summer rolls, Vietnamese iced coffees and teas, and a selection of baked and liquid sweets, our favorite being the grass jelly-filled rainbow ice with coconut milk. Even sweeter? That righteous toe ring you picked up during lunch, you rascal.