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Al Di La’s sister restaurant in Crown Heights may not be perfect, but it’s made itself essential to the neighborhood with its gutsy pasta dishes and big, comforting renditions of roast chicken and pork chops. The kitchen, run by Al Di La alum Carla Martinez, also offers lovely surprises for the adventurous eater, like the fried batons of lamb tongue served with a horseradish-kissed dip. Martinez has a way with Italian-style vegetables too, like a satisfying steak of cauliflower rubbed with capers and salsa verde, perfumed with anchovies. Though things don’t always run smoothly—you’ll find a cold, underseasoned dish here and there, or a distant server—Bar Corvo is a charming place to settle in for dinner with reasonably priced cocktails to boot.