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Chez Sardine is the fifth iteration of the dining empire fanning out from Sheridan Square known as Little Wisco. Via chef Mehdi Brunet-Benkritly, who also runs the kitchen around the corner at Fedora, another Little Wisco restaurant, the menu features reconstructed izakaya (Japanese pub) fare. There is, for example, a nori roll packed with chopped beef and sea urchin, and a piece of finger sushi covering a small wad of mackerel with frizzled leeks and potatoes, which sit on top like unkempt fur. Larger plates run to a beef cheek curry in a tall bowl with rice and pickles, and a maki roll filled with shrimp, avocado, and soy-flavored mayo that has been battered and deep fried, tempura style. Not such a good idea is a greasy toasted-cheese sandwich filled with foie gras, almost impossible to power through. True to its name, the place is sardine-size, with a few small tables and some stools along the bar and sushi bar. Be prepared to wait.