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The neon-lit Hotel D'Orsay sign looming over the back room's stage (on which alt-lit freshmen air out their slam poetry and Brazilian bongo kings groove impromptu) is not the only attitude at this Park Slope hideaway. The burly bartender is blunt and stone-faced, but is happy to break out rarely imbibed aperitifs, and teach you the way Ernest and Ezra drank Pernod and Ricard in Paris back in their literary day. Try a Barbes, basically a Cosmo with dashes of Chambord and Pernod. Stay for the band, and you won't be disappointed; this is one of the finest world music venues in town.