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With its pine paneling and all-American feel, Barrows Pub could be some ironic hipster playground. Instead, it's more like a musty VFW hall transplanted from Binghamton or Buffalo. And thank goodness for that, since the happy-hour prices are country, too. A few malty Rheingolds later, you will mistake the Quick Draw terminals for pomo video projections, the potbellied construction workers for aloof V.I.P.'s, and the friendly bartender for a lockjawed bouncer.