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On first glance, Battersby looks like every other twee Smith Street eatery. But something's different. A peek at the menu reveals none of the holier-than-thou artifice that often mars the Brooklyn dining experience. Chef-owners Walker Stern and Joseph Ogrodnek put out a constantly evolving menu that's elegant and refined (without pretension), not to mention spunky and inventive. Begin with the kale salad, featuring both raw and pan-fried crispy leaves under a spell of Thai basil and fish sauce. Then dig into the pommes puree with braised oxtail or the veal sweetbreads à la meunière. The desserts tread safer waters, but they're about the only predictable thing that comes out of this restaurant’s kitchen.