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BDC specializes in freshly made tofu-though bean curd dishes constitute a small part of rambling and far-flung Korean menu. Never mind--zero in on the tofu, which floats in a collection of seven soups. You can"t go wrong with the one called "pork," which features big wads of meat and pillowy curd immersed in a broth that can be made as fiery or as mild as you want. For lovers of novelty, there"s a curd soup featuring steamed pork dumplings, and a Japanese-leaning one with blond miso in the broth. The introductory pan chan are lush and profuse, and the full tofu-soup meal also includes a big bowl of rice, a fried fresh sardine, and a raw egg --to be broken into the soup if you so desire.