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Chef Waldy Malouf was a pioneer of the open hearth wood-burning oven; in fact, most of the food is done in it at this picturesque spot. Seating is on several levels, and a new bar menu allows you to eat here more cheaply than before. But even on the regular menu, there are cheaper options, such as the splendid hamburger with fennel pickles and homemade ketchup, accompanied by garlic fries. The menu is seasonal, and autumn"s smooth pumpkin soup is terrific. On a recent revisit, our favorite dish was a wood-roasted artichoke, charred on the edges and inundated with garlic olive oil. The devil"s food chocolate cake, served with ice cream flavored with wood-roasted vanilla beans, is the way to go for dessert.