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Sure it's a Fujianese restaurant, but is it the best? Best Fuzhou is certainly among the top ten in town, a bright small space that takes its seafood very seriously. Tops in our book is a fish maw soup (referred-to as "fish stomach" on the menu) with so-called "water melon" (which isn't the red-fleshed fruit). The brilliant potage is improved with tiny little color spots of red jujube dates. The clams with fresh garlic were another hit: a Sicilian-style seafood salad presented in a series of giant clam shells. It will leave your mouth burning with raw garlic. Frog's legs are another Fujianese passion, and so is pork with lychee. But don't be disturbed when you discover that there's no actual lychee in it.