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Despite difficulty in getting to this faux beer garden on the roof of Eataly, the food can be astonishingly good, via Mario Batali and his executive chef Alex Pilas, though the menu is fearfully low on the carbs you need to pursue an evening of drinking. The homemade sausages are gigantic Teutonic-Northern Italian mash-ups of subtle flavor, and the shredded kale with grapefruit in an anchovy vinaigrette may make you remark, “Why didn’t anyone think of that perfect texture and flavor combination before?” But special accolades belong to the oddball mushroom section of the menu, where oyster, ‘shrooms cavort as carpaccio, and maitakes come kissed with pecorino cream. The beer list? Strange but interesting.