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We lunched in this rustic Italian soon after it opened in the former space of the hapless-but-good Cake Bar and Cafe. The rice timbale was a smashaan amorphous mass of yellow starch stuffed with small chunks of meat, rice, tomato, and baby summer squash, with an herby zing. The flavoring of other dishes was too timid, though. Tonno alla nizzardese, the Italian answer to salade niccoise, was underdressed, and a plate of penne with porcini and artichoke lacked the oomph that only garlic can confer. The upstairs dining room is an airy delight.