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Want to join a club? Want to be the cool cat who can smoke on the back porch with the owners or be the sly lady who gets a sprig of rosemary added to her tall cocktail at the bat of an eyelash? Iad go just for the Rat Packameets-art-deco atmosphere (pressed tin ceiling and all), but you should for the special treatment and the chill crowd at this Italian social club-gone-public watering hole. Whazzat, doll? You got a sweet tooth? Order a ginger old-fashioned, muddled with sugar and cherries.