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Bubby's began life as a bar aimed at loft-dwelling Tribeca artists in 1990, but has since morphed into a sort of comfort-food canteen that has managed to remain plebian despite the increasing wealth of the neighborhood population. It's also one of the city's foremost purveyors of something we might call "locavoric trailer cooking." Thus, an entrée of chicken and dumplings is improved with Anson Mills cornmeal, locally sourced poultry, and farmers' market vegetables. There are good burgers, of course, but the biggest surprise comes from the barbecue: the applewood-smoked brisket deserves to be classified as one of the best barbecued meats in town. Lined with park benches, the room is comfortable, but a little too brightly lit.