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In the shadow of the Gowanus Expressway further down Court Street than you've probably even been before, Buttermilk Channel is named after the foamy body of water between Governor"s Island and Red Hook. The long menu tends toward comfort food, and the charcuterie, some of it homemade, is a strong point. The bistro also plays the locavoric card, with locally made cheeses and locally grown vegetables. Then there are oysters and sausages and daily specials, and sometimes it"s all too much for the kitchen to handle. Luckily, most things are done well, like the squash tart, the burger, and the duck meatloaf--which doesn"t really taste all that different from a regular meatloaf. For dessert, don"t miss the lush and chocolately praline sundae. Separate vegetarian menu.