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Small plates continue to take over New York City, suckering the gullible into paying big bucks for tiny bites. Yet at Buvette, Jody Williams's new Francophilic "gastroteque," you'll actually leave-quelle surprise-charmed and with your belly full. The décor marries the hallmarks of French bistro-dom-brick walls, pressed-tin ceilings, long marble bar-with an eclectic, bohemian flair, and the food is equally Gallic. Dig your toast deep into the crock of divine rabbit confit, nibble on saucisson sec glistening in herb-flecked olive oil, and spoon up lentils simmered with kale, which come in a miniature pot so cute you'll want to take it home for keeps.