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Not long ago, Cafe Cluny was the daytime spot for celebrities and the downtown elite, and the restaurant still sees famous faces aplenty. But it has also become a place where West Villagers go for a quick (or leisurely) lunch or brunch, for counsel over coffee and cheese, for weeknight dinners, for special occasions, for birthdays. For anything, really. Thatâ€™s because chef Phillip Kirschen-Clark puts out effortless, elegant dishes like a crisply bitter frisĂ©e salad with Fourme dâ€™Ambert cheese, a poached egg thatâ€™s perfect every time, and bacon vinaigrette; and seared yellowtail with roasted baby fennel. Thereâ€™s also the burger, a fat, half-pound affair that oozes juice and comes without cheese (because you donâ€™t need it) or its surf-borne cousin, the tuna burger, which we like seared black-and-blue with as much spicy wasabi mayo as the staff is willing to fetch us. And textbook-perfect steak frites, the meaty drippings seeping into a heap of salty potato sticks. Owners Lynn Wagenknecht, Judi Wong, and Steve Abramowitz opened Cluny in 2006 hoping to become a fine-but-friendly neighborhood joint, and today they say theyâ€™re grateful their baby has grown into exactly what they intended: a place where anyone can come and enjoy a great meal, day or night, in a stylishly sweet setting with enough personality to charm but not distract from the meal at hand.