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Chef Franco Barrio lists both Boqueria and Casa Mono on his resume, places that changed the popular perception of tapas in the city. Barrio's menu at Caliu ("smoldering ashes") mirrors those at both places, with the bedrock being small servings of Spanish charcuterie and cheeses of high quality--and high expense, as well. The balance is divided into small and large plates. In the former category, the pan con tomate (small toasts smeared with tomatoes) are excellent, while the papas bravas ("fierce potatoes") taste reheated. In the latter, the lamb belly with yogurt sauce is spectacularly good, and so are the braised mussels, while the shrimp skewers are only a test of the cook's dexterity. The wine prices are surprisingly low, and the dark narrow premises make for a good date spot.