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This unassuming place fashions rectangular, thinnish, crunchy Roman pies that are fired in an electric oven. The pizzas are the main event, while appetizers and sides are smartly simple-there's a selection of cheeses and charcuterie, or the antipasto Romano: small portions of marinated onions, silken roast peppers, peas with prosciutto, camponata, and bruschetta with Pecorino and artichokes. As for those pizzas, we particularly like the Matriciana, a take on the common Roman pasta dish hailing from the town of the same name. Here, it's a pie slathered with a thick, oniony tomato sauce, bits of crisp bacon, and Pecorino shavings.