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Chalk up another attempt to re-create Philadelphia's foremost vernacular culinary attraction, the cheesesteak. Doomed to failure? Only partly. Carl's Steaks has been undertaken by a real cheesesteak scholar, and the formula features thin sliced beefsteak worried on the griddle with a pair of long spatulas, then heaped with fried onions and one of the doctrinaire collection of cheeses: American, provolone, Swiss, and-perhaps most authentic-Cheez Whiz. Though the Whiz is applied with a timid hand, the sandwich comes as close to the original as anyone ever will on the East Side of New York. Which is about 70 percent of the way there.