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Casa Calamari is the last of the great focaccerias--originally, stand-up snack shops in Sicily offering a combination of seafood and fresh vegetables in various guises. Casa Calamari adds pizza and pastas to that mandate. The broccoli rabe hero--liberally dotted with caramelized garlic--is one of the city's great vegetarian sandwiches, and similarly scrumptious are the penne with Italian sausages and the eponymous fried squid, with rings so big you could almost use them as bracelets. (Choose from three tomato dipping sauces graded according to spiciness.) Among pizzas, pick the simpler ones, such as the affumicata, which features smoked mozzarella and sun-dried tomatoes.