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Conceived along the same lines as the sainted Alsalam Restaurant and Meat Market in Bay Ridge, Cedars Meat House is a Lebanese grocery with a grill planted right in the window. As the flames shoot up, the place turns out splendid oniony beef kufta (pick the chile-lace Aleppo), tender lamb kebabs, and delicate lamb chops, and less-interesting tawook kebab, made of chicken breast marinated in yogurt. Overhead twirls one of Astoria's better chicken schwarmas, and the glass case is filled with daily specials that include an unidentified but savory stew of lamb and spinach, and the national dish of beef kibbeh, faintly scented with sweet spices. Finally, vegetarians can looks forward to sandwiches of fried cauliflower and falafel, squirted with garlic aioli. Note: Seating limited to marble counter opposite grill.