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This noodle shop shows amazing diversity and expertise at the humble lower end of the menu. Gold and silver fried rice;from a list of many usual fried rices;is a masterpiece of salty fish tidbits, delicate egg drops, onions, and a scatter of yellow raisins, just enough to vary the terrain but not enough to be repulsive. Another favorite, and showing an obvious Chiu Chow bent, is a dish called "fried clams" that turns out to be tiny clams in their shells cooked with crunchy fried garlic and morsels of ground pork and strewn with cilantro. Yum! And don't miss the braised bird immodestly billed "King of the Roast Duck."