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Located in the same Elmhurst neighborhood, this offspring of Chao Thai – which may be the city’s best Siamese restaurant – is the equal of its parent in quality, with an expanded menu that overlaps, but does not completely duplicate the original. The large black and bright-orange dining room means you probably won’t have to wait for a table, as at the earlier establishment. Isaan food from northeastern Thailand is highlighted, featuring fiery salads of sausage, pork, green mango, and dried catfish. The most astonishing dish is homok, a crazy catfish mousse cradled in banana leaves. The gigantic bill of fare also includes agreeable southern curries, and Chinese-leaning noodles from the northwestern reaches of the country, plus an intriguing group of soups.