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Charles Gabriel began his career 20 years ago when he operated a truck that parked in various empty lots in Harlem and Hamilton Heights, frying up some of the most scrumptious chicken this side of Atlanta. Now, he's bivouacked just up the street from his last location, with the chicken-still made in cast-iron skillets, rather than deep fryers, the way the best southern chefs do-stacked in the window, and a full steam table cradling all the usual soul-food classics. The mac and cheese is particularly good of its type, made with gobs of cheddar in a very deep loaf pan, with extra cheese crumbled on top. The collard greens are similarly fab, but be forewarned: the barbecued ribs are sweet and not particularly smoky.