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Spunky octogenarian "grand-mére" Marguerite Bruno is still in the kitchen on weekends, and her influence shows in the resolutely old-fashioned, hearty French fare. Entrées are served out of silver chafing dishes by career waitstaff and the decor tends toward ornate woodwork and eccentric murals of Napoleon. The braised wild boar stew in red wine sauce is fantastic, as is the cherries jubilee, flambéed tableside. Why have these dishes gone out of fashion?