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Every country seems to have its own version of Chinese food, and Peru is no exception. Peruvian-Chinese restaurants are called “chifas,” and that’s the name this ambitious place in Jackson Heights has taken for itself, even though there were plenty of chifas that preceded it in New York City. The food is mainly like an antique version of Cantonese, with fried rices and stir-fries front and center. You’d do well to order from either category. The fried rice called aeropuerto is particularly good, a strange layering of fried rice and fried rice noodles (crunch, crunch!) dotted with sautéed chicken and vegetables. Other dishes—such as ceviche and chicken with green sauce—come from the regular Peruvian menu. Finally, there are some modern Cantonese recipes (the leek-strewn fried flounder is especially commendable) and some Japanese ones, too, reminding us that a former Peruvian prime minister, now disgraced, was of Nipponese extraction.