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This Mexican café followed the usual formula, evolving from a bodega and eventually adding an actual dining room. The bright green space offers commonplaces of Pueblan cooking, specifically from Cholula, an ancient Indian town on the outskirts of the capital, with a pyramid to prove it. Anything freshly made from masa is recommended--quesadillas, huaraches, and picaditas included. They may be filled with a roster that runs to eggs and peppers, the salted beef called cecina, spicy pork in sauce ("carne enchilada"), and skinless Mexican chorizo. Tripe soup is as good as it gets, and there's also a local specialty called mole de olla, a thick stew that features big hunks of beef and tons of vegetables, sided with a pair of plain tostadas.