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If you're tired of the usual steak house, here's a welcome alternative. Located in an obscure corner of Astoria and comfortably furnished with antiques, this Greek taverna concentrates on beefsteaks, serving charbroiled T-bones, fillets, shells, and chops, all displayed in their raw state by the front door. Starters are more recognizably Attic: old favorites like tzatziki, tarama, stuffed grape leaves, and grilled octopus, and harder-to-find items like steamed dandelion greens, home-cured sardines, and kokoretsi-bundled and skewered lamb innards heavily flavored with garlic and oregano. Like all steak houses, it's more expensive than it oughta be.