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As owner Maury Rubin tells it, when City Bakery opened in 1990 to â€śa minefield of dustâ€ť on 18th Street, Union Square was transforming from a drug-fueled area full of ancient, decrepit businesses into the bustling city epicenter it is today. And like the Union Square Greenmarket, which had just opened with only a dozen or so farmers, Rubin wanted his spot to be part of the change: â€śI wanted to breathe life and ideas into the neighborhood bakery, to make it a sensory experience, personal, up-to-date with the changing food world,â€ť he says. Nearly 25 years later, the shop continues to carry out that vision with each gooey chocolate-chip cookie, decadent cup of hot chocolate, and fluffy pretzel croissant it sells. Rubin says he subscribes to â€śFrank Lloyd Wrightâ€™s dictum that a house should be of the hill, not on it,â€ť and heâ€™s worked to make sure City Bakery remains an essential part of what it helped create. Proof that heâ€™s succeeded is in the crowds that throng the tables â€” despite the lack of wireless connection â€” all day long.