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Anything that swims is recommended at this Wall Streeteras hangout that seeks to re-create the (mainly imaginary) two-fisted eating halls of yesteryear. The trio of barrel herring--creamed, onioned, and carawayed--is so striking you can ignore the dull potato salad in the middle. Pan roasts, raw oysters, shrimp cocktails, and, especially, she-crab soup were all flawless, as was the touted burger, much too good for its garnish of iceberg and wooden supermarket tomato. Skip the low-on-flavor lamb saddle and signature Delmonico steakaunimproved by its mantle of blue cheeseain favor of any of the daily grilled fish.