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Those who've grooved on Jim Lahey's vegetable-topped sheet pizzas at Sullivan Street Bakery (now located in Hell's Kitchen), won't recognize the products of this Roman-style pizzeria. Even the dough seems different, rolled thin and formed into irregular discs. The place looks like a garage, with concrete floors and spare decor-in the early days, one table was perpetually occupied by Jean-Georges Vongerichten and his entourage. The toppings of the pies often fall into the "unusual" category: the santo, par exemplum, crusted with shaved radicchio, béchamel, and onions; or the "special pie," which incorporates brussels sprouts and shaved chestnuts. When Lahey hits a home run, though, as in his margherita and "ham and cheese" pies (the latter with prosciutto, buffalo mozzarella, pecorino, and gruyere), the baseball sails over the wall and clear into the next county.