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Behold the beautiful textures of the Japanese kitchen at this Nolita noodle den, where the complex, chewy buckwheat shines, and so does the salted tuna liver. Husband and wife team Yoshihito Kida and Mika Ohie spent years cooking in Japan before opening a tiny soba shop on Delancey Street. This second location offers hot, cold, and dip-style sobas in a mellow atmosphere, perfumed with buckwheat steam and buzzing with quiet conversation. The hot soba in a pork and kimchi broth stands out, as does the more classic, cold Zaru. Yes, you’ll have room for dessert after a light dinner—we suggest the fresh tofu or sublime green-tea affogato.