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Tom Colicchio's latest venture--replacing his steakhouse at the same address--reminds us of the original Gramercy Tavern, where he cut his eyeteeth as a budding celebrity chef nearly two decades ago. The front room is convivial and friendly, with a notably cheaper menu, while the rear room is formal and starchy, and we don't mean there are lots of carbs to be found there. In a visit to the front room, we particularly enjoyed the bone-marrow app, heaped with "drunk onions"; long-braised pork belly smothered in a raisin-rhubarb sauce; and a very rustic pizza with mozzarella, basil leaves, and fresh tomatoes in big pieces that had an intriguingly cooked-down flavor. Only the special of crisp-skinned fish filet in a weird grapefruit sauce left us unimpressed.