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Coppelia wants to be a diner with a twist: Instead of serving the usual menu of American, Italian, and Greek commonplaces, it seeks to transform the institution into a pan-Latin phenomenon, offering such dishes as sancocho, pernil, huevos rancheros, etc. It partly succeeds, though most of the standards come out all fusion-ey, and the roster of tweaked hamburgers seems unnecessary (especially the one that piles pulled pork on top of the patty). Nevertheless, there are many good dishes to be found in the minefield of mediocre ones, presided over by chef Julian Medina of Yerba Buena and Toloache. We especially dug the Argentine parrillada (a mixed grill that's a bargain at $15.95) and chaufa, a Peruvian spin on Chinese fried rice.