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Curry-ya takes the most plebian of Japanese dishes and elevates it by gentle tweaking. Every order consists of a ring of rice, curry gravy, meat or chicken, and a selection of four substances to be strewn on top: pickled green-onion bulbs, daikon dyed red, raisins, and flakes of dehydrated garlic. Salads are available, too, and many demonstrated a sure touch with Japanese-American fusion. Favorite meat: deep-fried Berkshire pork cutlet. The curry gravy itself is the product of a transmission process that extends from India to England to Japan, and now to America. The narrow space resembles a laboratory, with a white marble bar and a mere 14 seats.