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When we saw the color picture and read the hype about this place in the Times Wednesday food section, we thought, "This has got to suck." Nevertheless, we ran right up there to check it out. Were we ever full of shit-the barbecue runs from mediocre to quite good, depending on the cut. An unpredictable fave was an "Oklahoma" barbecued beef rib the size of a hatchet, gobbed with a sweet and spicy sauce. The pulled pork was pretty good, too, heaped on a bun in conventional Carolina style with coleslaw, though the brisket sandwich was awful. Service is confused, but the conversations you'll have with other line-standers make up for it.