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Daniel is flagship of chef Daniel Boulud's fleet, which runs to 13 ships docked in six farflung citiesincluding Beijing and Singapore. The room is formal, men must wear jackets, and the waiters are outfitted in somber black suits. Despite all this solemnity, there's something whimsical about the food, which is scattered about the plates in geometric shapes separated by wild streaks of colored sauce. The provenderwhich includes things such as sea bass, suckling pig, squab terrine, frog leg veloute, etc., etc.is also unspeakably rich, so that the three-course regular prix fixe, priced a little over $100 without wine, tax and tip, is enough to leave you groaning with pleasureand satiation.