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Proof that Times Square and decent food are not strictly antithetical, this third project of the city's foremost French chef, Daniel Boulud, is more playful than the other two, but nearly as expensive. The opulent "burger" has already been extensively lauded, but our favorite dish is boeuf en gelée, a cocktail glass of cold beef chunks lubricated with natural jelly and topped with horseradish foam. Spoon it on the slices of toast provided. We also dug a pink melon soup given a salty twist with shreds of duck prosciutto, and especially a rhubarb-almond cake served with a restrained rhubarb ice cream. The menu changes seasonally, so go to www.danielnyc.com for available dishes.