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The 15-item menu of small plates touches on the tropes of molecular gastronomy. Three or four make a meal. There's an egg cooked at 147 degrees (the temperature at which albumen coagulates), a squid body stuffed with lentils and chorizo, and a savory mussel broth topped with celery foam immersing a fried artichoke and a Kumamoto oyster. The wine list contains several beguiling by-the-glass choices at its lower end, and watching the cooks as you sit at the counter is part of the fun.