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Stepping inside Jack and Grace Lambâ€™s miniâ€“Epcot Center tucked into a quiet block of East 5th Street presents eaters with the difficult choice between Jewel Bakoâ€™s dramatic sushi and the more reverential experience at Spanish-inflected Degustation, where chef Nicholas Licata mans the planchas in front of 16 diners who watch him work from vantage points around a broad, U-shaped counter. Licata is the restaurantâ€™s third chef, and under his tenure thereâ€™s a whimsy and balance thatâ€™s been restored since opening chef Wesley Genovart departed for greener pastures in Vermont. Several of Genovartâ€™s practices and even a few of his dishes have endured, including the croquetas and seasonal fish crudo. (Genovartâ€™s most lasting impression may be his caramelized French toast dessert. The dish was initially served unadorned; Licata has experimented with smoked maple syrup â€” a resounding win â€” and now pairs the blow-torched cube of custard-soaked brioche with lemon curd.) When Degustation opened, its cooking was heralded as progressive. Now foams run the risk of seeming passĂ©, but Licata breathes life into frothy Riesling to pair with capers, beets, and potatoes for a plank of flaky corvina. Although prices have changed and the restaurant no longer offers a five-course tasting menu, the seven-course prix-fixe is a relative bargain at $80.