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Sired by a popular bistro with a glorious backyard on Union Avenue, DuMont is as bare bones as an eatery can be. Diners sit along a narrow counter on uncomfy stools, and it's easy to believe upon first entering the premises that DuMont is primarily a beer bar with a nice wine list. But the burgers are dense and juicy, the mac and cheese so rich with cream that it might better be called a macaroni gratin, and the french fries beyond reproach. Be sure to save room for sweets next door at the DuMont Doughnuts counter, where you can score hot, tender, fried-to-order beignets dusted with a variety of flavored sugars.