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According to chef Zak Pelaccio of Fatty Crab, this place has the best wontons in the city. While we won"t go quite that far, the dumplings are indeed fab, available in the usual range of soups, but the over-rice dishes are even better, offering two choices from a list that includes roast duck, lacquered spare ribs, roast pork, baby roast pig, and poached chicken. For an extra 50 cents, you can get a fried egg lobbed onto the top, and don"t forget to ask for "green sauce"--a fresh scallion-and-ginger relish. There are also noodles galore, and a range of Cantonese stir-fries. For breakfast, try a bowl of congee, with an impressive roster of add-ins.