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Empellon ("Push") is the brainchild of Alex Stupak, long the pastry chef at Wylie Dufresne's WD-50, the city's premier science chef outpost. His defection into the world of street tacos came as something of a surprise, but the excellence almost makes the high price (two tacos for $12 to $22) worth it. Meats such as tongue, sweetbreads, pork shoulder, lamb barbacoa, and chicken experience long braising, with extra flavors (chiles, olives, raisins) cooked deep into the taco fillings. Added as an afterthought, the conventional main courses are a mess, but there are other gems on the menu, including one sope featuring refried beans and an egg, and another with eggplant and crema. The elegant desserts, too, are worth trying -- not surprising given the chef's background.