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Chef Dave Pasternack comes from a Montauk fishing family, and he was on top of the local and sustainable bandwagon long before those terms became household words. His Italian crudo refers, not to the cured ham found throughout Italy, but to raw seafood seasoned with fruity olive oil and other flavorings, and there"s no better starter to a seafood meal. Whole fish like orata and butterfish, caught locally and charcoal grilled, are the default choices for a meal, but a broad range of seafood preparations are also available from seafood stews to pastas cooked with things like sea urchin and the fish roe called bottarga. Though they don"t involve fish, the desserts are also estimable, and there"s no better list of Italian white wines in town.