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This might just be the best Italian restaurant currently operating in the city, but don't expect food of the most traditional sort. Familiar recipes are often zapped with one unexpected ingredient (like cocoa nibs with the pork loin);the miracle is that it always seems to work. The noodle-free raviolis called gnudi are also spectacular, lumps of creamy ricotta and baby spinach topped with pecorino and bathed in butter and sage. And don't ignore the wine list, which has some amazing bottles even at the lower end.