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The concept is simple but ingenious--quality meat smoked low and slow the Southern way, plus Southeast Asian ingredients like lemongrass, chilies, palm syrup, fish sauce, galangal, and so on. Those zesty flavors are a naturally delicious counterpart to rich flesh--an American elaboration on existing traditions like satay, gua bao, and rendang. There are dishes here that can only be described as thrilling: impossibly crisp smoked duck with red curry; pork belly with yellow curry custard; lacquered pork ribs. But the portions are more tapas-sized than family-sized, and are relatively expensive, especially for such a pointedly casual place.